Mudjacking in Amarillo, TX

Mudjacking has been lifting concrete since long before polyurethane foam existed. Crews drill holes about an inch and a half to two inches across, pump a flowable slurry under the slab, and let hydraulic pressure push the concrete back up. The slurry, usually a mix of cement, sand or soil, and water, then hardens into a solid base.

It is a proven repair, and on the right project it still earns its keep. It is also the method most often replaced by polyjacking, so this page is honest about both sides.

How Mudjacking Works

1. Drill ports Holes of roughly 1.5 to 2 inches are drilled through the settled slab in a pattern that spreads the lift.
2. Pump slurry A hydraulic pump pushes the mix under the slab. It fills low spots and voids first, then builds pressure.
3. Lift in stages The operator moves between ports, raising the slab a little at a time until it lines up with the surrounding concrete.
4. Patch and cure Ports are filled with concrete patch. Mudjacking generally requires more curing time before heavy use, so plan on keeping loads off until the installer clears the slab.

When Does Mudjacking Still Make Sense?

Slurry is cheap per cubic foot compared to polyurethane resin. On a large exterior slab with deep settlement, where a big volume of fill is needed and nobody cares about hole size, mudjacking can come in at a lower price. Some property owners also prefer an all-mineral fill under their concrete, which is a fair preference.

It is a weaker choice where weight matters. Cured slurry runs on the order of 100 pounds or more per cubic foot, and all of that load lands on soil that already proved it could not carry the original slab. On soft or washout-prone soil, heavy fill can restart the settlement it was meant to fix. Slurry can also erode over time if water keeps moving under the slab, since it is a cement-soil mix rather than a closed-cell material.

Mudjacking vs Polyjacking at a Glance

The full breakdown, including which method tends to win for each application, is on the polyjacking vs mudjacking page.

What Mudjacking Is Used For

Typical candidates are large settled driveway sections, patio slabs, walkways, and exterior commercial flatwork where the slab is thick, the settlement is deep, and the soil below is stable enough to carry the added weight. Interior floors, pool decks, and anything sensitive to large patched holes generally go to foam instead.

Mudjacking Questions

Is mudjacking still used, or is foam always better?

Mudjacking is still used, and on certain large exterior projects it is the more economical choice. Foam has taken over most residential and interior work because of smaller holes, lighter weight, and faster curing. The right answer depends on the slab, the soil, and the budget, which is why projects get assessed rather than quoted blind.

How long does mudjacking last?

A mudjacked slab over stable soil can hold for five to ten years or more. The repair is only as durable as the ground beneath it: if drainage problems keep saturating the base, the added slurry weight can settle again. Fixing the water problem alongside the lift is what makes either method last.

Is mudjacking cheaper than polyjacking?

Per cubic foot of material, yes, and on big slabs needing lots of fill that difference can show up in the total. On typical residential jobs the gap narrows once labor, hole patching, and return-to-use time are counted. Quotes for both methods are worth comparing on any large project.

Will the larger mudjacking holes be visible?

The 1.5 to 2 inch ports are patched with concrete mix, and the patches are visible up close, especially on smooth or newer concrete. On older weathered slabs they blend in better. If appearance matters, foam's dime-sized ports are the cleaner option.